Ueno anago, Miyajimaguchi Japan

After our time on the island of Miyajima, we took the ferry back to Miyajimaguchi (the name essentially means “portal to Miyajima”) so that I could introduce D to one of my favorite places from my prior visits to Japan: Ueno.

It’s an extremely popular restaurant that’s over 100 years old and still serves only one thing,  anago-meshi: grilled ocean eel over rice.  You can order a bento version to go, or eat in the restaurant and choose between small, medium, or large versions.  There isn’t much English spoken, and there isn’t a menu, but you can get by with saying “medium”, for example.  They also have beer (“beeru”) and tea.

It always seems to be crowded, with one group waiting for their bentos, and another group inside awaiting tables.  Be sure you’re waiting with the right group!

Despite arriving a little after 1pm, which I thought would be after the lunch rush, we still waited for about 45 minutes.

Once seated at a counter in the tiny dining room, I ordered a medium anago-meshi and D got a large version.  They have the same accompaniments of miso soup and homemade pickles, with a little ginger in the bowl.

The anago is lightly glazed with sauce and grilled so that it has a sweet and smoky flavor; it’s perfectly tender, even with the gossamer-thin bones still in place.   The rice is mixed with a bit of cooked anago, so that it takes on a slightly golden tone and a savory flavor.  The combination of eel and warm, seasoned rice is perfect.

D’s verdict: “Worth the wait!”

Tips on finding it:  Walk out of the train station towards the ferry port, staying on the right side of the street.  Go through the underpass; Ueno is on the corner when you emerge (see street view here).  There are two parts to the restaurant facade – the bento box takeout window is on the right, and the restaurant host stand is inside on the left.  You’ll need to put your name down and then wait to be called.