Paris in May 2023

Just about a year ago, we spent a few days in Paris. Here are the highlights!

We took a walking photo tour one morning through the Île de la Cité and along the Left Bank into St Germain, with perfect weather and all sorts of interesting nooks and crannies to explore.

It was fun to meet a distinguished gentleman and his equally debonair chien, Achille, out for their morning stroll.

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In front of Notre Dame (still under reconstruction), we happened upon the annual Fête du Pain, a pop-up bakery staffed by bakers from around France. Some were constructing a towering bread centerpiece (approximately Christmas tree-sized!) while others were preparing masses of baguettes and pastries for sale. I chatted for a bit with a charming baker from Saumur who was making bread roses – note his red white and blue collar, indicating he is a MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France).

All the walking made me hungry, so I stopped into a Pierre Herme shop for a few macarons. Chocolate is always a favorite, and I quite enjoyed Celeste (a seasonal option with passion fruit, rhubarb, and strawberry).

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Near our hotel (the lovely Hotel Monge), we discovered an old-fashioned candy shop, Le Bonbon au Palais, jam-packed with candied fruit, chocolate, giant lollipops, and hard candies of every flavor from all over France. I liked the pale green anise ones best – and you too can try them, the shop sells online!

My favorite meal was at Pavyllon, pretty much my ideal Paris restaurant set in a garden with glassed-in patio seating, white tableclothes with flowers and crystal, a book-sized wine list, short tasting menu of elegant and delicious dishes, and delightful service. And a cheese cart accompanied by an bulbous decanter of armagnac, which was served with an enormous eyedropper.

I finally made it to the Puces de Saint-Ouen, the famous Parisian flea market that I’ve always wanted to visit. It’s actually a series of separate “districts” comprised of narrow alleys and tiny shops packed cheek by jowl, which are only open for a few days each week.

You can find everything from funny vintage toys, piles of old silverware, and knicknacks galore, to the highest end antique art, furniture, and jewelry. D was especially interested in a watch shop where the owner, a young man, explained that he’d started training at 14 (typical in France).  Quite a few interesting and unusual watches, including an 80s reversible Omega digital watch! If you see something you’d like, best to buy it on the spot as it’s not easy to re-trace your steps in the maze-like market. On my next visit, I’d like to spend more time exploring here.

We returned for lunch at a restaurant I’d previously enjoyed, L’Oiseau Blanc at the Peninsula. I love the view of Paris rooftops and the Tour Eiffel, the elegant food, and the excellent wine list.

Another long-time entry on my Paris wish list was seeing the toy sailboats at the Jardins de Luxembourg. These boats – a bit over a foot long – are rented out along with long wooden poles that children use to propel them across the fountain. A charming scene!

While this was a short visit, I was happy to experience some new places and revisit a few favorites. À la prochaine, Paris!