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Good Taste is the Worst Vice

Kumiko, Chicago

March 17, 2019

It’s no surprise that D and I love Kumiko, an elegant cocktail bar with a healthy dose of Japanese inspiration from the team behind Oriole.

Drinks are sophisticated and creative, with spirits and flavors from Japan (like ume, picked plum, in one rice-inspired cocktail).  There’s also a robust spirit-free selection, which I look forward to trying during my mother’s next visit!  (In fact, Kumiko creator Julia Momose developed it with her own parents in mind.)

And the food is straight from the Oriole playbook, truly exquisite.  My favorite is the pristine oysters, warmed with yuzu butter (and optionally topped with caviar).  I could eat them by the dozen!

Kumiko offers either omakase cocktail and food pairings, served at the bar at either 530 or 830pm, or à la carte drinks and snacks at a table.  I’d suggest trying both, as some of the drinks and most of the food are different between the two experiences.  At the bar, one of the highlights is creative nigiri sushi similar to that served at Oriole.

At the tables, it’s fun to mix and match from the menu; besides the oysters, we particularly liked the superb tempura prawns as well as the grilled loup de mer.

As for drinks, I enjoyed the Walk Softly (rice vodka, yuzu sake, vermouth, and Champagne) while D asked for an off-menu martini.  There are also interesting flights of sake-cocktail-tea in three small glasses that are fun to try.

For dessert, there’s a chocolate-flavored cocktail made with bierschnaps, shochu, creme de cacao, and nutmeg – really good!  Have it with the Japanese milk bread, a caramelized square of thick-sliced bread with honey ice cream and shaved black truffle.

Kanpai!  And arigato, Kumiko!


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Les Climats, Paris »

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