Kinkakuji and Ginkakuji, Kyoto

Kinkakuji, the Golden Pavilion, is probably the most recognizable site in Kyoto – the shimmering gold leafed building is beautiful in any light and any season.

Across town is Ginkakuji, the Silver Pavilion – thus nicknamed because it was originally meant to be covered in silver leaf and, perhaps more relevantly, because it’s a perfect counterpoint to its more glamorous cousin.  But in fact, Ginkakuji is a decidedly un-adorned white and wooden structure.

We started our day at Kinkakuji, which I recommend – even at 9am, just after opening, there were crowds, including bus tours unloading and lots of student groups.  After buying a ticket (a piece of rice paper with beautiful calligraphy), you walk just a short distance to a crowded viewing area across the lake from the pavilion.  We didn’t venture too far in, since the best viewpoints are just off the main path.

The path continues along the lake and then curves around behind the pavilion.

There’s not much else to see once you have your fill of Kinkakuji, so the crowds move along, but I found the birds on the back side of the pavilion quite interesting: two pairs of ducks and a pair of cormorants, swimming and diving and sunning themselves.

Years ago, when I visited Kyoto with my mother, we decided to take the bus around the city, which turned out to be a terrible idea, since it was incredibly slooooooow.  This time I’d learned my lesson, so D and I took a taxi to Ginkakuji.

The viewing area is even smaller than at Kinkakuji, right next to the pavilion – I spent barely 30 seconds there before moving on.  The path winds around a sand garden, which is fascinating (how do they make it so perfect?) and then up into the hilly moss gardens.  It’s a decent climb, yielding a nice view of the pavilion from above.

I was searching for some “VIP” moss that I’d seen in photos, but couldn’t find it. Instead we saw what I suppose is “just everyday” moss, which was being carefully swept clear of fallen leaves by the gardeners.

You could linger longer than we did in the gardens, but as it was a rainy day, we decided to press on and continue our exploration of eastern Kyoto with the Philosopher’s Path.