There is a very small window when corn soup makes sense – close enough to summer that there’s still good fresh corn available, but cool enough that it doesn’t seem absurd to be making soup.
That window has arrived, so D and I had this creamy corn soup for dinner in Wisconsin tonight.
The first step is to find the best corn possible; the selection at Whole Foods was a bit sad, so I also picked up a half dozen ears of locally grown Wisconsin corn that was fresher and sweeter.
Cook’s Illustrated recommends a technique of “milking” the corn on a box grater, which produces a delicious, pulpy corn liquid. When this is added to the soup, it supplies a deep corn flavor that’s far beyond what might come from corn kernels alone. The downside is that it’s rather tiring to grate so much corn – and I’m wary of grating my fingers – so fortunately D took on this task.
The resulting soup is creamy and delicately flavored, almost a chowder, except that it’s just a bit too summery to go by that name. It’s comforting enough for a rainy autumn evening, yet still bright and fresh enough to recall sunshine and warmer days.
Creamy corn soup
12 ears corn
1 large yellow onion
2 cloves garlic
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp butter
3 tbsp flour
1 lb Yukon Gold potatoes
1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
3 cups low sodium chicken stock
2 cups 2% milk
1 cup half & half
1/2 tsp salt
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
With a box grater, grate 8 ears of corn into a large bowl. If needed, scrape down cobs with a knife to release any remaining pulp.
Cut kernels from remaining 4 ears of corn, and set aside.
In a large pot, melt butter in olive oil. Dice onion and add it to the pot, and cook about 10 minutes until softened and just faintly golden. Put garlic cloves through press and combine with onion, cooking about a minute.
Add flour to onion mixture and stir for a few minutes until flour is slightly cooked.
While stirring constantly, add chicken stock. Then add potatoes and herbs. Add grated corn mixture and milk. Stir and bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer about 10 minutes. Add salt.
Add corn kernels and half & half, and simmer another 8 to 10 minutes.
If desired, serve with a sprinkling of coarse salt and some freshly ground black pepper on top.