Aboard the Delfin II, Upper Amazon

I can’t imagine a better base for our exploration of the Upper Amazon than the Delfin II. It’s a small boat with just 3 decks and 14 guest cabins, but it has everything one could need and fits perfectly into its surroundings.

The crew was exceptionally friendly and helpful, whether teaching me new Spanish phrases (like “hasta la cena” / “see you at dinner”, for when I left the dining room after lunch), decorating our cabin with a variety of towel origami, or providing a helping hand as we climbed back aboard from a skiff.

Each cabin has enormous windows; I enjoyed watching the scenery drift by when we were under way, and found it fascinating when vegetation was pressed up against the glass when the ship was secured to a tree. One day I watched a hummingbird flit around the plants just on the other side of the glass, and another day I discovered a fingertip-sized frog traversing our window.

My mornings began with a cup of coffee in the open lounge on the top deck, along with fellow passengers scanning treetops with binoculars or updating their journals.

Breakfast was a buffet and I usually had fresh fruit and yogurt, often with a small quesadilla and an egg. There were interesting juices, including camu camu, cocona (yellow tomato, my favorite), and a sort of hot pineapple tea.

I eagerly anticipated the lunch and dinner menus each day. Both meals were three course affairs, often highlighting a regional dish or local ingredients – Doncella fish (a kind of catfish), hearts of palm, cocona, and condiments like hot peppers in lime juice (including the tiny Charapita and the amusingly named pipi de mono).

One of my favorite dishes was inchicapi, chicken soup thickened with corn meal and ground peanuts. So flavorful and comforting!

Thankfully our stewards also taught me the word “llena” for “I’m full”!

The tables were decorated differently each day, often with indigenous craft animals – owls, monkeys, snakes, and this cute little guy.

Meals were accompanied by freshly baked bread, and each day I wondered what shape our dinner rolls would take – fish, anaconda, dolphin, turtle, caiman?

Similarly, I looked forward to the daily surprise of a new towel creation in our cabin – from an elephant to a surprising creature in our bathroom.

One of my favorite afternoon presentations was led by our cabin steward / waiter, Segundo, who taught us a variety of these towel origami. If you ever find yourself in need of a towel monkey, give me a call!

We were so comfortable and content on the Delfin II, it was hard to leave! Thank you to all the crew for making our time so wonderful.