Next: Tour of Thailand

I noticed the difference as soon as I stepped into Next.  No longer were we in Paris 1906; now the exotic aromas of Thailand wafted through the air.  

There’s a bit more theater in this concept, designed to create an experience of eating in Thailand – moving from street food, to a restaurant, and back to the street.  Instead of a white tablecloth, the table was topped with a folded Thai newspaper that was spread out in anticipation of our first course.  Keeping with the casual theme, we also received two pink paper napkins, some plastic spoons, and small plastic cups for our punch.

As in Paris, the first course is one of the most memorable – five items, each intensely flavored yet very different.  The airy steamed bun has a green curry and beech mushroom filling, which was delicate and complex.  The fried prawn cake and fermented sausage are textural contrasts to the bun; the first dense and sticky, the second chewy. 

My favorites were the sweet shrimp and the roasted banana, both beautifully presented and intricately garnished.  I ate the sweet shrimp with one bite, which nearly overwhelmed my tastebuds with fleeting and wonderful flavors – the shrimp itself, mint, garlic, and a tongue-numbing wash of chili.  Finally, the adorable little banana, roasted and topped with garlic chips, pickled shallots, tiny cilantro shoots, and thinly sliced chilis.  The garnishes are the perfect complement to the sweetness of the banana, and D and I carefully scraped out every last bit with our plastic spoons.  

The punch, made of guava, mango, and papaya juices with Batavia Arrack (a rum-like spirit) and sparking wine, was equally delicious.  Drinking it instantly sparked thoughts of vacation, hot weather, and a beach umbrella.

When we were finished, the newspapers were whisked away and replaced by an orange table runner, with intricately-folded white napkins and crystal stemware.  Restaurant time.

The soup course was first, an interpretation of tom yum soup poured tableside into a bowl containing paper-thin tomato and mushrooms, some pork belly, and bits of ginger.  The hot and sour broth is velvety and perfectly mouth-puckering.  Another cocktail was served with the soup, a combination of gin, lychee, and chrysanthemum – interesting, but my least favorite of the evening.  (Me to D: “It tastes kind of like celery.”  D to me: “But I thought you don’t like celery.”)

Next, we received a woven, basket-like container of jasmine rice accompanied by three dishes of condiments – pickles, nam prik pao (made of roasted chilis, garlic, and shallots), and salted duck egg.  We tried a little of each with the rice; my favorite by far was the salted duck egg, which is custardy soft and fantastically good.

The condiments were still on the table when the catfish arrived, served on a fish-shaped metal dish atop a piece of hot charcoal and accompanied by a fresh basket of rice.  The fish is delicate in both texture and flavor, accented with tiny pickled onions D discovered underneath.

The final savory course was fall-apart tender beef cheek in a coconut milk curry – an assertive dish, which came with a third refresh of rice to offset some of the richness. The combination is sophisticated yet homey.

I felt Alinea’s influence when we arrived at dessert.  After a palate cleanser of watermelon juice, we were each presented with what appeared to be a whole coconut and instructed to hold out our hands to receive it.  The top half is removed to reveal a carefully arranged assortment – coconut, mango, corn, licorice-flavored tapioca pearls – and then is filled with a scoop of coconut water sorbet.  Every element is impeccable, and the combination is lovely.

The last course is designed to highlight the importance of scent to our perception of taste – a mini scientific demonstration.  We were coached to first smell the rose brought to our table, then take a bite of dragon fruit immediately after.  It’s an interesting exercise, and a nicely light end to the meal.  We also had small glasses of the optional pairing, Banks 5 Island rum.

In lieu of mignardises, we had Thai iced tea served in plastic bags – one final bit of theater. It has a good, strong tea flavor and is sweet but not overly so.  I was still sipping mine when we were invited into the kitchen, still sipping as we met Chef Beran and chatted with him briefly, still sipping as we headed back out onto the street.  Goodbye, Thailand!

Also at Next
Paris 1906
Childhood

The Aviary
Opening weekend
Tasting menu
Kitchen Table experience
The Office